Help Please !!! Housebreaking my puppy on his First Day

Hi All,

I am writing from Down Under in Perth, Western Australia. I just brought my Rhodesian Ridgeback puppy home today and when I pick her up from the breeder today, I realise the breeder was crating her with newspaper in one corner of the crate for her to relieve herself on, meaning that she has been relieving herself in the crate she is sleeping in which I was shocked to learnt, if I knew that the breeder does this with her puppies I would think twice before getting the puppy from her.

Anyway, since I brought her home thios afternoon, she does not want to relieve herself outside, I took her several time before and after her dinner, the moment I left her on her own confine to the laundry, she relieve herself just next to the newspaper I put down for her in the laundry, this was about 30 - 60 mins after her dinner.

This evening, I saw her sniffing, so i took her out and again she would not do it outside, the moment I put her in her crate, she did it in her crate, I did not put any newspaper in her crate, she has some towel in there and she did it in her crate....which I was very disappointed since I want to housebreak her outside and avoid using newspaper...

Any advice how I could get her to do it outside and break the habbit she might have develop from the breeder. I have block off a rather large crate she is in so that she has only enough space to sleep in.

I work during the day, so I was going to use newspaper during the day while she is confine to the laundry and I was going to crate her and take her outside when I am at home.

Thank you all for your advice and comments

Robert Young

 

oh I dont know, you are right you ahve a problem - what sixe if your crate, sounds like its too big if hse can go in a corner. One thing you need to do is block off the inside so she has just enought room to move and turn, if the crate is too big, they will relive themselves anyway. hope someone else can help with this.

honeybear

 

Sheesh thats a hard one.

Once a pup is taught to do soemthing one way, its hard to revert to another way, but since the pup is young, she will learn.

1st take her outside about 15-20 min after dinner and do not come back inside until she has done her business. Encourage her by saying the sme thing over and over like "go potty" "do your business" ect...
Once the pup goes, praise her like she's the campion of the world! She'll realize once she does this she gets treats!

If thats not working.Take a peice of news paper out with you and lay it in th yard. Do teh same. Encourage her, each time praising, and making the paper smaller and smaller until there is no paper left.

She'll learn, its just going to take time. Remember, she's just a baby and its not her fault someone taught her wrong!

 

wow that is tough one :? I had a similar problem with Nana, her problem was that after she was paper trained to a certain spot it became very difficult to train her outside.

what i did was when id see her sniffing around 'her' spot id immediatly take her outside. it was rare in the beginning where she would actually go outside. but when she did i praise her like never before.

then one day, bam! she started to use the bathroom outside and now at almost months old she can be confined in the bathroom for quite a while ad will not go inside, she will go running outside. good luck with your pup!

P.S. I would ask the breeder why on earth shed teach her pups to eliminate in the crate. i find this quite irresponsible. maybe she has kept pups and she could give you advice on how to eliminate this habit?

 

Thank you

The evening I brought her home, I was shocked to find that she peed in her crate which I have blocked so that it is small enough just for her, still she peed on the towel she was sleeping on,I know that this is one of the worst thing a puppy will do, I know I am in big toruble but what can I do, I bought the puppy home now...

Anyway, back to the puppy, she kept us up the whole night and I took her out a few times during the night and she will do nothing outside and after I fed her this morning, i took her out again and stayed there for a gd hour and still nothing. I brought her inside and put her in her crate for a while and watch her for any sign of sniffing and when she started too, I took her out and still nothing. I knew the moment, I turn my back on her and stop watching her , she will do it and she did on the newspaper... I put her in her crate and I will take her out in 2 hours to try again. It seems she does not like us to watch her while she relieve herself. She likes to be held and follow us everywhere we go when she is not in her crate

What should I do?

I am very frustarted and disappointed that I got a puppy like this, she is 9 weeks old.

Thank you

Rob

 

Hi! I know this is very long, but! it has some great info....

Good luck!

Housetraining is a universal problem with a simple solution. These tips will help you train your puppy or older dog to eliminate outdoors.

Good Health Is Essential
Make sure your puppy or dog is healthy before undertaking housetraining. Intestinal parasites are the most common cause of inappropriate defecation.

Bladder infections are a frequent cause of inappropriate urination. Have a stool sample checked by your veterinarian. If you suspect a bladder problem, have a urine sample checked as well. Symptoms of bladder infection include frequent urination of small amounts, unproductive straining, or licking of private parts.

Feed your puppy a good quality puppy food. Avoid over feeding or making sudden changes in his diet; both can cause diarrhea. Another common problem arises when a dog has been given steroids to treat a bee sting or allergic reaction. Steroids usually increase the dog’s water intake and urine output.

Scheduling
Feed your puppy on a fairly regular schedule, two or three times a day. Allow 30 minutes for each meal, and remove the leftovers after that time. Maintaining a feeding schedule helps predict output.

Schedule your puppy’s trips outdoors. The average puppy needs frequent opportunities to eliminate. Start first thing in the morning with a trip outside as soon as your puppy awakens. Puppies feel the call of nature about every hour when they are awake and playing. They need to go out soon after eating, and after drinking water. By the age of 10 or 12 weeks, the average healthy puppy can sleep through the night. If your puppy has an accident, examine the schedule and make adjustments to prevent future accidents.

Confinement
One of the most valuable tools in housetraining is the dog crate. Intended to be used like a baby’s playpen or crib, the crate keeps the puppy safely confined when no one is available to supervise her. Crating prevents accidents for the normal puppy, because her instinct to keep her nest clean is very strong. Crating also prevents her from destroying your treasured possessions while she is teething, or injuring herself by chewing on or ingesting something harmful.

Your puppy should be crated at night while you are asleep, and any other time you cannot supervise his activities. This includes times when you are on the phone or in the shower, or doing anything that prevents you from paying full attention to your puppy. He should have an opportunity to go outside every time you let him out of his crate.

Training
Every time you take your puppy outside, give her plenty of cues. As you walk out the door with her, say “Let’s go outside.” Take her to her spot, and repeat your cue phrase as she is about to eliminate. (Be sure to use a phrase that does not come up in every day conversation. Avoid cues such as “hurry up” or “be a good dog” in favor of something more specific, such as “do your piddles.”) When she goes, praise her enthusiastically and reward her with a very small food treat, right there on the spot. After several
repetitions of this routine, your puppy will learn to eliminate on cue (very useful in bad weather or strange places) and learn that eliminating outside is more fruitful than eliminating inside. After a week of this, continue to praise the puppy every time she goes outside, but reward with food on a more random basis. In a couple of weeks, you won’t need the food reward at all.

Accidents
If you find an accident, clean it up, and consider adjusting your puppy’s schedule to prevent another accident. Punishing your puppy only teaches him to be wary of you. If you catch him in the act and punish or correct him, he will learn to eliminate when you aren’t looking, which will defeat your training program. If you should see your puppy circling as if he has to go, gently remind him to “go outside” and help him get to his spot where he can earn praise and a reward.

Accidents happen most frequently in the morning or evening when the puppy is out playing with the family. It is easy to become so involved in an activity that you forget that the puppy hasn’t been outside in an hour. If this is the case, find a way to remind yourself, such as setting a kitchen timer or alarm clock.

Patience
Unrealistic expectations are a frequent cause of problems in housetraining. On average, the bladder/brain connection is not fully formed until the puppy is about 8 months old. If a young puppy does go to the door and “ask to go out,” his need is immediate, he must go out right away. Some dogs never learn to ask to go out, while others learn quickly to go to the door and sit or bark or ring a bell. Some dogs learn to use a dog door easily and go out whenever they feel the urge. The best way to ensure success is to stick to a schedule long enough for the puppy’s body to adapt to it and get in the habit of eliminating at particular times.

Neuter or Spay
If you are not planning to enter your dog in conformation competition, neutering or spaying helps ensure successful housetraining. Neutered males still lift their legs, but are less inclined to mark their territory (including the priceless antique chair legs and the floor-length drapes). They are also less prone to certain cancers and prostate problems that can lead to accidents in older dogs. Unspayed females ovulate twice a year, on average. For several weeks before and during the heat cycle they are more prone to mark territory. They are also more vulnerable to bladder problems that can lead to accidents.

Paper Training Is Not Housetraining
Teaching your puppy to eliminate indoors on newspaper does not lead to success in housetraining. Dogs are place oriented, and once taught to go in a particular place on a particular surface will continue to do so. Careless newspaper readers are liable to reach for a section they left on the floor only to find it has been used by the family dog.

If you must confine your puppy for more than six or eight hours at a time, or if you live in a high-rise apartment with a small dog, consider using a “litter box” for your dog. A plastic under-the-bed storage container, lid removed, filled with bark mulch will serve this purpose very well. The mulch absorbs urine odors, and smells and feels like “outside.” You can confine your puppy in a small room, such as a bathroom, with a baby gate, giving him enough room for a comfy bed, his water dish, and his mulch box.
This approach works well for young puppies and very elderly dogs with health problems, and is less likely to interfere with your efforts to train your dog to eliminate outside.




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Ending Destructive Chewing
Scottee Meade
copyright 1996
Dogs love to chew. Puppies chew to investigate their environment and to relieve the discomfort of teething. Adult dogs chew because it feels good, it helps pass the time when there’s nothing else to do, and sometimes because a tooth hurts or some nutrient is missing from the diet. Left to their own devices, dogs will often chew on the first object they come across, or an object that smells like the owner. Sometimes a food smell attracts them. Whatever the reason, chewing problems are easier to prevent than correct, and are best corrected using positive methods.

Punishment
Punishing a dog for inappropriate chewing is seldom successful in correcting the problem. To be effective as a training tool, punishment must be 100% consistent. If a dog is punished for chewing in the owner’s presence, he simply learns to chew when the owner is absent. Punishment more than 3 seconds after the crime is not effective; the dog has already forgotten the crime. If you come home to a scene of destruction, very calmly tell your dog to go get a chew toy and praise him for bringing one to you. If you are really angry and must let off steam, go in another room, away from the dog, and beat up a pillow. Beating a dog simply teaches him to fear the person beating him, and possibly people in general.

Prevention
The best way to protect your furnishings and possessions is to start when your puppy is very young, confining it when you cannot supervise play, providing sufficient exercise and proper nutrition, offering appropriate chew toys, and praising the pup lavishly for using them. Crating your pup can be a life-saver, preventing it from chewing electrical cords or ingesting poisons when left unsupervised. Make sure the crate is large enough to allow the pup to stretch out. Provide a comfy bed, and a couple of really good chew toys.

When you are with the pup but unable to supervise closely, confine it with a leash attached to your belt. Make sure the pup won’t chew the leash, and provide one or two good chew toys. Try to catch the pup in the act of chewing the right thing and praise lavishly.

Exercise Body and Mind
Many chewing problems are solved simply by ensuring the dog has sufficient exercise. A 30-minute walk in the morning before the dog is left for the day will help relax and even tire the dog enough to reduce the desire to chew. Incorporating some training exercises into the walk, such as having the dog sit or down at several points on the walk, and doing a come-fore exercise 3 or 4 times will also help relax the dog. If a walk is impossible, 15 or 20 minutes of tossing a ball in the backyard or down a flight of carpeted stairs for the dog to retrieve will do the trick. The dog should also have some exercise in the evening, to help it relax for bedtime.

Training
Take the time to teach your dog to chew on chew toys. Always reinforce your dog with lots of praise when you “catch him in the act” of chewing on his own toys. Play games such as toss and fetch with a toy to increase his interest. If the problem chewing occurs when you leave the house and is focused on belongings that smell like you, try to leave your scent on his own toys. Carry a new chew toy around in your pocket for a day and handle it, or just rub your hands over one of his toys. Once he has the hang of chewing on his toys, teach him to “Go get a chew toy,” praising him when he brings one to you.

Keep chew toys in every room of the house until the dog gets good at finding them on command or on his own. Eventually, you can keep them in a centrally located toy basket, making sure that the dog has unlimited access to them. Periodically you will have to fish them out from under chairs and sofas and return them to the basket.

Once this training is under way, you can lead the dog to a forbidden object, such as drapes or shoes or electrical cords. Move the object around, and just as he is about to sniff or lick or chew the object, say “OFF!” in a firm voice, and then, “Go get your chew toy.” Repeat this several times, and then if you catch him investigating a forbidden object on his own, repeat the “OFF” and “Go get your chew toy.” command. This is what trainers call an instructive reprimand, letting him know by tone of voice and words what is wrong and how he can correct the problem.

Appropriate Chew Toys
Provide your dog with a variety of chew toys, including a Kong toy, nylon bones, sterilized marrow bones, and a soft “Chew Man” type or twisted rope toy. Different dogs prefer different textures, and one dog may prefer several different toys depending on its mood. Avoid home-made toys like worn-out tennis shoes or knotted socks. It takes extra time to teach the dog the difference between the old shoes and your brand-new $100 running shoes, and certain fibers, like the nylon in socks or hose can be very dangerous to a dog when ingested. It is cheaper to spend money on good dog toys than to replace your good clothes. Hollow toys, such as the Kong or marrow bones can be stuffed with peanut butter or cheese to increase desirability. After some trial and error, you will discover what your dog likes best. It’s a good idea to stock up on favorite toys, so that new ones are always available.

Nutrition and Health
If your older dog suddenly develops a chewing problem, have your vet do a thorough exam to rule out illness, such as an abscessed tooth. With all dogs, be sure that the diet is adequate to meet that dog’s nutritional needs. A dog with a fixation on chewing a particular substance (such as wood or paper) may have a pica, a craving for something missing from the diet. Look for a food with as little filler as possible, and avoid foods with additives and byproducts.

Many dogs develop destructive chewing habits when their feeding schedule changes, specifically when meals are decreased from twice a day to once a day. All dogs should be fed at least twice a day (growing puppies three times a day) to prevent such chewing problems, as well as other potentially serious health problems.





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


CRATES AND HOUSEBREAKING
Vivian Bregman

Why use a crate?? I certainly wouldn't want to spend hours locked up in area barely big enough to stand up and turn around in. BUT --- I am not a dog, and neither are you. A dog is a den animal. If you look at where your dog chooses to spend his sleeping time, you will most likely find that it is behind a chair, under a table, or in a secluded corner. He wants and needs a bed of his own, a den, someplace where he can be alone.

A crate is by far the best and easiest way to prevent most of the problems that cause many people to get rid of their dogs. You need a crate for your dog if he has housebreaking accidents, if he destroys things when left alone, if you have small children who don't understand that a dog needs time alone, if you have company who is afraid of dogs, if you travel with your dog and want to reassure the motel or your host that the dog will not get into trouble when left alone, and, most important of all, you need a crate for your dog if you want the very best trained dog possible.

When do you want to start use of the crate? The best time is when you first bring the puppy home. If you have bought the puppy from a breeder there is an excellent probability that he is already used to a crate. If he is under four months old he should have no problem accepting the crate as his "home" . If he is older it will not be as easy, but it can and should be done.

Where does the crate go? My crate sits in the corner of the dining room, away from the heat and away from drafts. Yours can be in the corner of the kitchen or the playroom or someplace similar. That is, a people oriented place. Do not use newspaper in the crate. Instead use a piece of blanket, towel or some kind of matting that can be washed in case of accident.

A dog crate is a rectangular enclosure with a top and a door, made in a variety of sizes proportioned to fit any size dog. Constructed of wire, wood, metal, or molded fiberglass/plastic, its purpose is to provide guaranteed confinement for reasons of secu-rity, safety, housebreaking, protection of household goods, travel, illness, or just general control.

The dog crate has long been accepted, trusted, and taken for granted by dog show exhibitors, obedience and field trial competitors, trainers, breeders, groomers, vet-erinarians, and anyone else who handles dogs regularly. Individual pet owners usually re-ject the idea of using a crate because they consider such enforced close confinement unfair and even harmful to the dog.

The dog, however, sees it as having a room of his own: it's his own private special place, a "security blanket". A Playpen. The crate helps to satisfy the "den instinct" inherited from his den-dwelling ancestors and relatives, and he is not afraid or frustrated when closed in. He is actually much happier and more secure having his life controlled and structured by human beings -- and would far rather be prevented from causing trouble than be punished for it later.

A dog crate, correctly and humanely used, can have many advantages for both you and your dog.

With the help of a crate you can enjoy complete peace of mind when leaving your dog home alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and that he is comfortable, protected, and not developing any bad habits. You can housebreak your dog more quickly by using the close confinement to encourage control, establish a regular routine for outdoor elimination, and to prevent "accidents" at night or when left alone. You can effectively confine your dog at times when he may be underfoot (meals, family activities), unwelcome (guests, workmen etc.), over-excited, bothered by too much confusion such as too many children, or ill. You can travel with your dog without risk of the driver being dangerously distracted or the dog getting loose and helplessly lost, together with the assurance that he can easily adapt to any strange surroundings as long as he has his familiar "security blanket" along. He is also more welcome in motels and in other people's homes when the host is told that the dog will be crated in the room and therefore unable to make problems.

The crate should be large enough to permit the dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped and to sit up without hitting his head on the top. Remember that a crate too large defeats the purpose of providing security and promoting bowel control.

New crates can be purchased in retail pet shops and discount pet food and supply outlets, through catalog sales firms such as Sears, at the larger dog shows, from dog equipment catalogs, from a crate manufacturer, or from an obedience instructor. Even the most expensive dog crate is a bargain when compared to the cost of repairing or replacing a sofa, chair, woodwork, wallpaper, or carpeting. Make it very clear to children that the crate is NOT a playhouse for them, but a "special room" for the puppy,
whose rights should be recognized and respected. However, you should accustom the puppy from the start to letting YOU reach into the crate at any time, lest he become overprotective of it.

Establish a "crate routine" as soon as you bring the puppy home, or as soon there-after as possible. Close the puppy in it at regular one to two hour intervals during the day (his own chosen nap times will guide you) and whenever he must be left alone for up to three or four hours. Give him a chew toy for distraction and be sure to remove collar and tags which could become caught in an opening.

If things do not go too smoothly at first, do not weaken and do not worry -- just be consistent, firm and aware that you are doing your pet a real favor by preventing him from getting into trouble while left alone. Make sure that you do not let the dog out of the crate while he is barking or he will think that barking is the key to opening the door to the crate.

Start by making the crate smaller, and then increase the space inside the crate as the puppy grows so that he remains comfortable. Plan to use the crate until the puppy is ten or twelve months old -- well past the chewing stage.

Most people feel that a chewing puppy is normal, and that he will "grow out of it". Be aware that dogs do not grow out of problems. While puppy chewing is normal teething, it very quickly becomes a habit which can be easily prevented with the use of a crate together with his "chew toy".

In order to housebreak a dog, take him out of the crate on a six foot lead (carrying him if he is small enough) to the "potty" spot. Stand still so that the dog cannot wander. This spot should be close enough to the house so that you can get to it when the weather is bad, and to clean it up, but far enough from the house to avoid odors. Say "Potty" or "Business" or whatever word you want to use, and praise him for the act, and give him a small treat if he does what you want.

Once he has relieved himself, take him for a walk of at least fifteen minutes. The mistake that many people make when house training their dog is to walk the dog until the dog relieves himself and then take him into the house. The dog, in order to get a longer walk, puts off relieving himself, sometimes miscalculating and waiting too long. This leads the owner to say that the dog is "spiteful" and waiting until he is inside to "do it on the carpet on purpose".

Once your dog has relieved himself outside in the potty spot, and has gotten his treat and his walk, take him into the house and let him loose for about one hour. Although the chances are the dog will not relieve himself in the house, he must be watched. If he starts to do something you don't want him to do, you can catch him in the act and teach him that it is wrong. After an hour or so loose in the house, take him out again. If he does his "Business" you can reward him and take him for a walk. Continue this system all day long, putting him in the crate when he cannot be supervised. Since he does not want to soil his bed, he will wait for his walk. This may not work as well or as quickly with a "pet shop" puppy because they spend so much time in a crate and use the crate for their "business".

When your dog has an accident do not rub his nose in it or hit him.
a. If you catch him in the act of eliminating, startle him with your voice, scold him and immediately take him to his toilet area. Praise him there if he finishes eliminating. Praise him mildly even if he only sniffs the area.
b. If you didn't catch him in the act, don't scold him when you find the mess, just clean it up and vow to watch him more closely. Punishing after the fact doesn't work. Your dog simply can't understand and connect your punishment with the act of eliminating which he did sometime before. If this punishment method worked, all dogs would be housebroken! He may look submissive ("guilty") because he knows you are angry at him - he can easily tell by your body posture and tone of voice - but this has no bearing on the act of elimina-tion he did earlier.
c. Clean accidents thoroughly as the scent will draw him back to use the area again. Don't use ammonia as there is ammonia in urine.
d. If your dog consistently house soils in one area try feeding him there or keep his water bowl there.
e. If accidents are frequent he needs to be watched much more closely and taken out more often.
Don't be in a hurry to allow your pup unsupervised freedom. Housebreaking will be done long before he learns what not to chew. The crate will protect him and your belongings!

Housebreaking is an all-or-nothing procedure. If your dog eliminates occasionally in the house, he's not housebroken! It does not mean "tell me when you have to go out" as some dogs will ask you to play doorman many times a day. Housebreaking eventually should mean "hold it and wait until I take you out."

The key to housebreaking is really simple: Prevent accidents and praise correct performance

Susan

 

Update on her housebreaking progress

Hi again,

Wow, I got heaps of advice from you guys and I appreciate it very much, thank you. I finally manage to get her to relieve herself outside. I put the newspaper she relieved herself on outside, that did not work also but this afternoon after feeding her, her second meal, she started sniffing and I immediately took her out where she did a big one. This evening she did a small one and then again at about 9 - 10. I tried putting her on the lead but she will bite the lead and start playing, so I did not put her on the lead anymore.

Then to my disappointment, she did a big one in the laundry where she is confined, worst she did not do it on the newspaper which covers half of the laundry, she did it on the tiles....

She did not want to have her evening meal, she has been eating well and heaps since I brought her home yesterday evening, I do not know why she did not want her evening meal, she dranks heaps though....

Do you guys think, she is getting better? personally I was thrilled that she relieved herself outside 3 times today but then she kinda lost it again when she did a big one outside the newspaper...

I am trying not to get rid of the newspaper all together because I work during the day and I am not home for about 6 hours, during this time I am not able to find somebody to take her out, so I thought of using the newspaper while I am not at home and taker her out when I am at home...is that feasible?

Thanks for your future advice

Cheers,

Rob

 

HI i would just like to add that even though a puppy maybe house broken at the breeders home please never think he/she will be that way when you get them home.

When with the breeder they are taught to go to the toilet in a certain place and they learn what time they are going out.
When they go to the new home they need to learn this all over again.

You should not feel frustrated or dissapointed over the fact the puppy is having accidents at 9weeks old they are still learning and now they are with new owners they have to relearn wat is acceptable and what is not.

At 9weeks old the puppy should be able to hold his or her bladder for 2hours never let a puppy go longer than this before being allowed out to relieve themselves.Leaving her for 6hours without going out you are going to have accidents.

What i do with my litters is take them out when they first wake, After feeding, After playtime, And just before i goto bed,Reduce the amount of water she has 1hour before she last goes out and this will reduce accidents a little


My puppies are 7weeks old and fully housetrained but that is for me the new owners are aware they will have to teach the pup where they are allowed to do there business.

I am lucky as i leave my backdoor open so they have access to the yard and the other dogs all day so they go out as and when they need to.

I dont believe in paper training as you give them mixed signals that its ok to go potty in the house on paper but its not ok to do it anywhere else.

But each owner has his or her way of training there pups or dogs.

THe main key is patience praise her lots and offer treats when she goes outside.

Never smack a puppy or like some people do rub there nose in it as this does nothing but make the pup scared of you.

Good luck and i hope things work out for you and your new addition.

Mike.

P.S ridgebacks are beautiful dogs

 

Housebreaking is truly the worst part about raising a new puppy, but realize that your pup is still very young, and training takes dedication and work. Also, some pups unfortunately take longer than others, and even once you think your puppy is completely housebroken and is accident free for weeks, they will still likely have relapses for awhile. From the time we took her in, it took my husband and I four full months until our dog was completely housebroken. But in the big picture, though it seems like forever now, 4 months is a small price to pay to have a companion that can share the house with you for years to come

 

Thank You - My puppy doing little and frequent pee

Hi Guys,

Thank you so much for all your advice. My puppy is making some progress and I am being more patience and less demanding on her, she relieve herself 95% of the time when I take her out when I am at home.

One of the problem I have now is that she does little wee and she fiddle around before she relieves herself, she does little and short wee. Is that normal?

Also she drinks so much water when I feed her is that normal? I am giving her what the breeder told me to feed her. Am I right that I should not have water available for her permanently? I've heard that control feeding (i.e take the food and water when she has enough) is the way to go?

Gee, it is hard work, when I am at home, I take her out every 30 - 45 mins, I am so scared that she does something inside, am I being too harsh on myself....

Your comments please?

Thanks

Regards,

Rob

 

When home, I always left out water so the pup could have access to it. We crate trained, so when we were not home she did not have access to water.

I am a bit unclear about what you posted, but if you are saying she pees many times in little small amounts, you need to take her to the vet to check for a bladder infection. It's a good idea to take a new pup to the vet anyway, for a checkup. If you have already done this, the cheapest thing to do would be to collect a little urine yourself and bring it to the vet for testing. It's easy to do - just follow her around and slip a shallow container under her as she starts to go. If you can't take it to the vet right away, keep it refrigerated (in a closed, well-marked container).

It sounds like your pup is making good progress. I know my dog has developed a dislike for going potty in new places - but once she goes the first time she seems to think it's okay and then will go without any trouble at all. Probably the first time your pup went outside, it was a breakthrough.


Jamiya

 

Hi Jamiya

Hi Jamiya,

Thank you for your very fast response. Yes, my Ridgeback puppy relieve herself very frequently in small amount. The breeder has take her to the Vet already and she has all her vaccine as at 9 weeks and the breeder has declared that she is free of any known disease as verified by the Vet..

Do you think I should take her to the Vet. Sometimes, I think that she does little pee so as to please me since I keep repeating the 'Toilet' word..do you think it could be possible...

Regards

Rob

 

I would take in a urine sample. She could have picked up an infection since she was last at the vet. It's important to get it taken care of if it is an infection, and it's just a matter of giving her a course of antibiotics. If she DOES have an infection, clearing it up will help a lot with housetraining as well. With a bladder infection, you have a constant urge to go, but when you try to go you can't make much come out, or it hurts. Not fun!


Jamiya

 

You should always take a dog recently gotten to your vet ,in a puppy check ,unless the breeder specificly tells the vet ,they do not check for kidney or bladder infections .Sounds as if it may have one .whatever you do though ,don't take its water away ,fluids will help to push the infection out .But more than apt needs antibiotics and vet treatment .it is always wise to take to your vet as fast as possble after recieving your puppy .

 

HI i would like to understand something your saying that your 9week old puppy has had all her vaccinations???

If this is the case i would like to know what age the vet gave the fist as here in the uk its adviced not to give the first injection till 8weeks old as there body is still full of antibodies from the mother.

We give 1st at 8weeks
2nd at 10 weeks
and 3rd at 12 weeks

the there booster every year.

Also i would agree to have her tested for a urinary infection i have noticed with my females adults and pups they all do small amounts of pee before fully relieving themselves but it is always best to have them checked to be safe.

Also any professional breeder should give a certificate of health check and a copy of the vaccintaions the puppy has had also dates they were wormed.

To be on the safe side i would have her checked over just for peace of mind.

Hope all is well with her and you have many years of fun with your little girl.

mike

 

charmedagain

That is the standard in the US as well. Some Vets and breeders do the the first at 6-8 weeks though.