feeding advise please!

I have a 10 week old rednose pitbull what is the best way to feed and what type of food would you recommend?

 

If he/she is finicky you can free feed but if not I would feed on a schedule to make potty training easier (they eat and then poop as puppies). I feed Nutro dog food and I swear by it. It's the same price as Iams so...

 

I feed Nutro Ultra. Its all natural products, and I love it!!

There is a Nutro puppy one that I used to feed Harley when she was a pup and its great.

 

i feed my puppies nutro max puupy food. my vets say feed them asoften as they will eat. Puppys need as much food as possible when their little to grow. i usually feed mine 4 to 5 times a day.

 

i feed Jax nutro max as well.. i tried somethin else.. science diet, and it didnt sit too well with him.. i feed him about 4 times a day.. i tend to always keep a lil food in his bowl

 

feed the puppy purina puppy chow, growth formula... 5 cups a day

 

bullylove1 and rayd: Nutro Ultra has a puppy formula, also. My adult dogs have responded really well on the Nutro product. It takes the guess work out of giving them all the necessary nutrients for bones , joints, growth and over all health.

Like bullylove1 says, it's all natural, nothing synthetic as far as preservatives.

My dogs have had no problems with skin, stool, teeth, or fur since starting on Ultra. There is no odor on them. It's a really great product.

 

I must RAVE about Nutro Ultra also. I was originally using Nutro Natural, then Nutro Max, but wasn't really impressed - better than the other stuff out there, but not the results I expected. I have just now got my dogs completely switched over to Nutro Natural and it is great! The most noticable thing is their coat - it's so soft, shiny, and no odor! It has also further helped with stool pick-up (more solid and compact - and less of it all together). I LOVE Nutro Ultra! (Oh, and the dogs seem to love it too )

 

Spencerpits: I know its off topic but did you ever find Nemo?

 

No - we didn't find him, and to be honest I'm not holding out much hope that we will find him. I just hope whoever did take him won't mistreat him. Unfortunately, looking at it realistically, he is probably doomed to a life of fighting or other mistreatment. :cry: But I hold out hope that maybe it was some stupid kid who just liked the dog. While I don't think we'll find him - I will always keep my eye out. If I ever found him and had to prove he was mine - I can contact the breeder and pay for DNA testing on Nemo and his parents.

 

In the past, I always had used Purina Pro Plan for my dogs.
Since this past April, I received into rescue the worse case of dog emaciation I had ever seen. The dog is a large German shepherd. He should weight around 95 lbs. The day I got him, he only weighed in at 56 lbs. His whole body was nothing but skin and bones. He had over 80 percent of his fur missing due to malnutrition and pure neglect.
I did research and found this food to be one of the better quality foods.
Within three weeks, the dog had gained 14 lbs and had almost 75 percent of his fur back. Daily I added fish elmusion to his food too!
I swear by this food!!!
I switched all my dogs over to it. The name of the food is Wellness.
http://www.waggintails.com/programs/wellnessbrand.htm
Here is a wonderful lesson about dog food and reading labels. I found it very helpful.
Enjoy!
Sue

What is my dog eating

In today's competitive market, there are over 1000 brand names of dog foods, and equally as many boast that ‘theirs’ is the best. So how does the novice decide which food to feed and why?

Bag Labels:

Let’s begin by learning how to analyze what is in the bag. Labels tell the story. On all dog food labels we find panels of identification.

These panels cover the following information:

Company brand name and Logo (i.e.: Iams, Pedigree, Diamond, etc.)

Ingredient identifier. Such as, lamb and rice, chicken, chicken and rice, beef and so on.

Size and age identifier is also on this panel. This includes the size dog the food is appropriate for, and the age range. An example would be large breed puppy. And finally is the weight of the product in the bag. This information is noteworthy, but not where a seasoned dog expert looks to analyze dog food.

The information guide shows us:

1. General analysis (shows the percentages of the food stuffs that makes up that particular brand).
2. Ingredients list (shows ingredients in descending order, by weight).
3. Nutritional adequacy claim (identifies life stage for which food is intended and whether animal feeding tests procedures were used).
4. Feeding instructions (how much of the food to feed your dog and how many times per day is recommended).
The Guaranteed Analysis on the dog food label lists the minimum levels of crude protein and fat. It also shows the maximum levels of fiber and water. "Crude" refers to the total protein content, not the amount of protein that is actually digestible. What this means is that this is ONLY a crude protein percentage, and fat amounts are rough guides.

The amount of moisture in a food is important, especially when you are comparing foods. A food containing 24% protein and 10% moisture would have the same protein per serving as a food with 24% protein listed on the label but only 6% moisture. The thing to consider here is that you are buying water instead of food.

Ingredient Listing:

Ingredients are listed in descending order, by weight. However, the listings may be misleading. Suppose chicken is listed as the first ingredient. This would cause you to think it is the primary ingredient. This may not be the case. If it's followed by wheat flour, wheat germ, wheat middling and so on, the combined wheat products may very well total much more than the chicken.



Preservatives:

BHA and BHT are chemicals that have been used to preserve dog food. They are associated with liver damage, abnormalities in puppies, and have been linked to cancer.

Ethoxyquin is one of the most heard of and discussed preservatives. Links to cancer, thyroid abnormalities, and liver and kidney failure have been debated about this product.
Propylene Glycol was actually designed for use in wax and antifreeze. It is associated with hair loss, skin problems, diarrhea and even death in dogs and cats.
Sodium Nitrate is used as a food coloring as well as preservative. It has been shown to cause cancer.
Tocopherals are considered the good news in preservatives for dog foods. They are a naturally occurring preservative, which function as antioxidants. The only downside to using tocopherals is their relatively short shelf life.
Protein and Age:
What is acceptable for a puppy concerning protein content is in no way appropriate for an aging dog. Many dog foods on the market carry a protein range of 23% to 29% and sometimes even higher. For a puppy or young dog that is active much of the day, this is an acceptable rate. However, for an aging dog, this amount of protein, particularly the 26 – 29% range can cause many problems; kidney failure, acidity in the urine, and obesity to name a few. It is wise to determine your dog’s activity level, age, and size before choosing a protein level.

Comparisons:
To effectively analyze the ratio percentages of fat, protein and digestible content, and discover which is the best food for our dog, we must do comparisons. We are not only trying to discover which is the best food for our dog, but which foods can be potentially dangerous to our dogs.

The time to analyze foods is not while you are in the pet supply store trying to choose the best food for your dog. If you ask ten passersby, you will get ten different answers about what brand to feed and why. Do your due diligence and compare the foods. Most pet stores and pet supply outlets have samples of all the brands they carry. They are generally yours for the asking. So ASK! Then take home the packages you have gotten and sit somewhere quiet with your favorite beverage, a notebook and pencil, and dissect the labels. Check for preservatives. Discard any that use chemical preservatives like Ethoxyquin. Narrow the field. Remember that dogs need more meat in their diets than roughage. They are carnivorous. If the label lists chicken as the first ingredient followed by poultry by product meal, then meat and bone meal, before listing wheat, or corn, you probably have the first food in your comparison that will pass the analysis. Don’t stop there. Compare them all. If one has more meat and meat by products, but also contains the chemical preservative, Propylene Glycol, put it in the loser stack and move on.



Dog foods with salmon, fishmeal, and egg should rate at the top of the list. Egg is the single most consumable protein for a dog. It rates above all other meats and meat by-products. As we learned in the beginner course, Immune 26 is an all egg product that is revitalizing the immune systems in our dogs, while providing a highly digestible form of protein.

Other ingredients to look for in the best of the best dog foods include the following:

Biotin
Probiotics
Glucosamine
Fossil Mineral Powder
Lecithin
Olive Oil
Apple Cider Vinegar (may not be in dog food, but can be added as a spray on top.)
Sodium Bentonite
Each of these ingredients has a unique property that adds to the health and well being of our dogs.

Lets look at the advantages of each more closely.

Biotin: Helps metabolize fats, carbohydrates and proteins. Biotin prevents anemia, muscular pain, and skin disorders.

Probiotics: This is a friendly bacterium that helps in the digestive process.

Glucosamine: This is believed to help in the treatment of osteoarthritis by helping to develop health bones and cartilage.

Fossil Mineral Powder: It is one of nature’s ways of eliminating parasites.

Lecithin: This ingredient lowers Blood Cholesterol levels. It is believed to that it also strengthens arteries thus controlling blood pressure.

Olive Oil: The useful fat in olive oil helps carry important vitamins through your dog’s body such as A, D, E and K.

Apple Cider Vinegar: Contains cholesterol-reducing pectin and the perfect balance of 19 minerals. It contains 93 different components that can help regulate blood pressure, fight off infections, relieve arthritis pains, promote healthy digestion, and improve metabolism. It also cleans out toxins from tissues and joints.

Sodium Bentonite: This is an aid in the digestive process

Raw Food Diets:



We can’t accurately analyze food without looking at the benefits of raw food and bones.

When we think of a dog in a natural state, they would largely consume small game and eat vegetation readily available. Therefore it stands to reason that our dogs would prefer raw meats and an assortment of vegetables to constitute a balanced diet.

Much is being written about these raw diets. Most people are singing the praises of the overall effect this food has on their dog’s health.

There are companies out there who sell tubes of food, claiming they are as good as a raw meat diet. This cannot possibly be true, because the mere step of processing this tube, removes it from its raw state. There are other companies who truly do sell a raw meat diet with added minerals and vegetables. For those with limited time, this is a good alternative.

There is a down side to feeding raw diets. A list of concerns is as follows.

· Some dogs are hard to train over to raw after so many years on nibble.

· Blending raw food is time consuming and generally messy.

· Figuring out the correct amounts and ratios for a dog is all by trial and error.

· Freezer space is needed so the food does not have to be prepared daily.

· Handling raw meat is not without some risk.

On the other hand, the benefits for a dog far outweigh the inconvenience. Many breeders are now starting their puppies out on the raw diet, and are experiencing healthier puppies overall. What kind of food to feed, and analyzing what are acceptable ingredients is a personal choice.



In summary, we have learned that not all foods are created equal. A wise dog owner will check labels and determine which food is best. As an expert, you can assist people with information and understanding how to read labels, but only the owner can make the final choice. Beware of additives and chemical preservatives, and remember, the dog is a carnivore, and should be fed like one.

 

I always gave my pit purina puppy chow growth formula. its worked pretty good but i wasnt 100% satisfied cause now my pit is 10 months old but its hard to keep weight on her. she eats all the time but is really skinny imo what kind of food do you recommend for her now.

 

I have not tried it, but I've heard good things about Diamond dog food. However, when looking at the ingredient list, I'm not too impressed. Has anyone here used Diamond dog food, and if so, what did you think of it?

 

I currently use Diamond Maintenance and also the Diamond Puppy food. My dogs seem to really like it. Their stools are minimal and they have maintained a healthy weight. Not to mention the price is very reasonable and for me that is an Important factor because I have 5 dogs soon to be 6. My husband also feeds his hunting dogs Diamond High performance

 

I suggest Authority brand dog food, you can find it at PETsMART and I swear by it. It has no by-products so it is very easy on your dogs stomach, plus it is better for them. My dog was very picky as a puppy and I tried about every dog food until I stumbled across authority. I would stay away from purina, ol roy, kibbles and bits, and junk like that. Authority is NOT a filler and my dog only poops about twice a day, very minimal stools. I suggest you try it out.

 

I feed my dog ProPac.

 

LOL When I first read your post, I thought it said Prozac! LOL I was thinking I could use some of that too but how nutritional can it be?
LOL