Betta Fin-Rot?

Hi everyone, I usually hang around in the Cats Forum, but I also have two bettas so I decided to start posting in here too and get to know everyone!

I have a question if anyone would like to help me out! Responses would be awesome!

I have two Bettas, one I've had since the end of May, his name is Bayers, and the other I've had since the end of July, his name is Hirr. I clean their double-hex about once a week, and rarely twice a week. I've used Water Conditioner drops and Bowl Buddies Fizz Tabs to make the water safe for them, but they both still got Fin Rot... or what I believe to be Fin Rot. So I've been putting 8 drops of BettaFix Remedy daily. But their fins have only gotten slightly better over the last 1 1/2 months. Is there anything else I can to do make their fins look better?

This is what their fins look like: droopy, weathered looking and kind of dull.

Does this just come with age?

 

Ive heard maflex(i dont know how to spell it ) is good

 

Maflex? I'll have to look into that! Thank you very much!

 

How large is the tank? What is the ammonia reading right before a water change?

Fin rot can generally be linked to poor water quality, so you may have to either get bigger tanks (2+ gallons each would be a good minimum) or do more frequent water changes. Other than providing good water quality, you can use an antibiotic like Maracyn.

-Chelle

 

My tank is small. I have a double hex. I change once or twice a week.
I'm sure you've come across betta hexes in the pet store. They're small, I read that in nature bettas live in puddles, so they like small amounts of water. I've never done an ammonia reading. What is it and how do you do it? I'm not very fish savvy, as I usually spend time in the cats forum, I thought all I had to do was feed them, change their water, add chemicals and boom! happy fishies!

 

That thing about bettas preferring to be in tiny little bits of water is totally false. Bettas, like all fish, produce ammonia; the less water there is, the more concentrated it will be and the more quickly it will reach toxic levels and cause problems such as fin rot and/or death.

You really need to look into getting your betta at least a 1 gallon tank (and even then you'll likely have to do water changes 1 - 2 times/week). For my male bettas, I found 3 gallon jars at Walmart for about $13 (the label says 2 gallons, but they're actually 3). They're really great because they cost about the same as the 1/4 gallon containers sold specifically for bettas, but provide much more swimming room and because of the water volume, I can go about 2 weeks between water changes. And when full of water, they only weigh about 25 lbs, which isn't too heavy to lift (at least for me) for 100% water change.

For the ammonia test, you should be able to buy it at your LFS. I recommend the liquid tests because they're much more accurate than the dip stick ones. You can also take a sample of the water to the LFS and ask them to test it for you. Just make sure they give you the actual number (not just "it's fine"). If it's anything above 0, it's bad.

-Chelle

 

About testers...

I have a ph kit that I bought a while back, and I have to admit I havent used it for a while, because my mollies seem to be invincible...but anyway, Ive noticed that when alot of people have problems, moderators and experienced fish keepers want to know the exact number results of the tests. My test kit came with a colour chart, and you match the colour of your liquid with the colour on the chart, and the one that matches the closest is the number that your ph is. Is this test kit any good or should I look into buying a different one? I have nooo idea whats out there, so any advice is good.

 

Although pH is somewhat important, what you really need most are ammonia, nitrIte, and nitrAte. And yes, the liquid tests like that are best.

-Chelle

 

Here'a a link to the Melafix referred to in an earlier post. I'm using it now for a scrape one of my pleco's has.