PARVO: Information & Links

First thing:
Bring your puppy/dog to the Vet ASAP if you suspect your dog is ill. The information shared here is NOT meant to replace vet care. Please note that while information may be helpful, only a vet can give your puppy/dog a proper diagnosis.

 

Having experienced Parvo with my puppy Piccolina, I have done a lot of research. Here are some websites that have great information. Unfortunately, my Piccolina did not make it. The vets that saw her did not test her or diagnose her with the virus so she went 3 days without treatment which if they would have recognize the virus, she might have made it. If you see the signs in your puppy or adult dog, please ask for a Parvo test right away.

http://www.marvistavet.com/html/canine_parvovirus.html

http://www.pethealthcare.net/html/body_ ... ction.html

http://www.lbah.com/Canine/Parvo.html

http://www.avma.org/communications/broc ... vo_faq.asp

This medication claims to kill the Parvovirus. When my new puppy Bella started showing signs of Parvo, I immediately took her to the hospital to have her tested for Parvo. She was negative but if she would have had the Parvo, I would have tried anything and I would have given this a try.

http://www.parvoguard.com

Good luck and feel free to contact me. Silvia.

 

I copied this from another post from Sargesmom

Here is the a VERY detailed listing of disinfecting after Parvo-

The choice of what disinfectant to use is dependant on ones circumstances. Chlorine Bleach is the most highly recommended, and is used in a 1 to 10 ratio with water, (1 cup bleach, 10 cups water). It is readily available and economical. It is also corrosive, produces fumes and can burn skin. Bleach must be left on the surface being disinfected for 10 minutes.

Another option is a Parvocidal Disinfectant. The most widely used is Vikron S, manufactured by Farnam. Veterinarians may have other suggestions for Parvocidal Disinfectants. In the case of Vikron S, it is not corrosive, gentle in relationship to washing hands and skin in general, and produces no fumes. In some situations products such as this, though more expensive, may be a better choice. Vikron S costs approximately $1.60 per gallon when used as a soak or hand application product. When used in fogging or wet mist application the cost is doubled. A ten-pound container of Vikron S is sold for $77.00 and will be sufficient for 123 gallons of mixed solution. The manufacturer states that one-gallon is sufficient for 135 square feet of surface for wipe on applications. It must be left on the surface for ten minutes, or until it is dry. To insure the safety of the dog being cared for, it must be wiped off as well. It must be mixed with warm water, as it will not dissolve in cold. AS you can see, there is more to it than simply adding some to your water.

The biggest problem, aside from cost, when choosing these products, is that the directions on the labels must be read carefully. Do not rely on memory or the advice of experts. We recently came across a post, written by an expert, stating that Vikron remained an active disinfective agent for two weeks after being combined with water. This is not so according to the information given by the manufacturer, which states that Vikron is only effective when mixed with water for one week.

With Parvocidal Disinfectants read the label carefully for strength needed to kill Parvo viruses, ratio of water to product, length of time product must stay in contact with surface being disinfected, and length of time it remains a viable disinfectant when mixed with water. Store the product as per instructions to assure its potency


Preparing Yourself For The Down And Dirty
The first thing to remember is that everything that goes into a potentially contaminated area is possibly infected when it leaves. Skin, hair, clothing, cleaning apparatus. So one wants to be assured that one is not taking the virus out with it. Here are some tips.

•Have a bucket or other container inside the doorway on a rubber mat with cleaning solution inside.

•Wear a shower cap, latex gloves, plastic boot covers. Some people are sensitive to latex. If you are one of those, there are latex gloves that are made for the sensitive. Check with your laboratory/medical supply person. Also have goggles on hand to protect your eyes from the cleaning solution. The more you cover, the less contaminated you will be when leaving the room.

•Have "Clean Clothes" that are specifically used for this job. There are disposable scrubs that can be purchased and worn for this task. These can be worn when caring for quarantined Animals as well

•Another choice would be coveralls that go directly from quarantine room to wash, using one cup of bleach for each ten cups of wash water. But remember, if the virus is on the clothes and the clothes are placed on a surface, the surface is then potentially contaminated, and then will need to be disinfected immediately.

•Even if using plastic boot covers, getting in and out of the room can be tricky. We would suggest that rubber or latex boots or rubber boot protectors be worn in the room. One can then place cleaning solution on the mat, stand on the rubber mat, remove the plastic covers, place them in bucket of solution, step out of boots into a foot bath of solution, a large plastic dishpan would suffice, placed outside of the door of the room. Yes we are being anal.

•All clothing and cleaning paraphernalia, (rags, sponges, whisk broom, dust pan, etc.), would best be placed in the bucket of solution when finished.

The How To's
Once you have created an environment that is workable for disinfecting procedures and chosen a product to use, dressed for the occasion, the next step is planning and implementing the actual procedure. Here are some guidelines that would be best considered.

•Start by washing all surfaces off with warm water and detergent to get dirt and other organic material off of the surfaces if necessary.

•Allow all areas to dry before using disinfectant product or you will be diluting it's strength.

•Start from the top and work your way down to disinfect all exposed areas. Leave the cleaning solution on the surfaces, and we are talking every single one thousandth of an inch here. Leave no area unclean. Pay special attention to cracks and small holes in surfaces.

•According to some experts, and we agree, the above step should be repeated.

•Place all clothing and cleaning paraphernalia in disinfectant solution, letting it soak for at least, we repeat, at least, ten minutes and then wash nondisposable items in warm water thoroughly.

•Before removing the buckets or pans of clothing, cleaning utensils, feed dishes etc, wipe the outside of the container with disinfectant solution and allow to sit in same on mat for necessary time. Remember to wipe down the mat, both sides, as well.

•After necessary time, which for both bleach and Vikron is 10 minutes, rinse all surfaces you have cleaned thoroughly.

•Allow entire area to dry before restocking.


Are There Stones Left Unturned?
We have prepared the above guidelines very carefully. We are not Scientists or Medical people, though many of us have worked in Wildlife Rehab and Veterinarian Hospitals. It is possible that we have left some crucial step out. We are open to your Feedback.

In the meantime, many may be thinking that we are going overboard here. Please note, an APHIS Doctor who is considered an expert was recently quoted as saying that a sufficient quarantine would require a Level 3 Bio Security facility. To the best of our knowledge there are two in the country. That gives you some idea of the degree to which potentially contaminated items and surfaces must be cleaned.

 

I, too, had a puppy who died from Parvo about a year ago. I took him to the vet immediately when he started vomiting and they didn't run a test for it or diagnose him with it. We went to the vet 3 times in 4 days befor I finally had to have him put to sleep because he was basically starving and dying of dehydration and the vet said he wasn't going to make it-- he would just suffer until he died. It was the most painful 4 days of my life---waking up every hour to give the puppy 2 ounces of pedialyte to try to keep him hydrated... just to have him get violently ill 10 minutes later. PLEASE--- if you have a dog that starts to show any signs of being sick, take it to the vet and have it checked out. I'd hate for anyone else to go through what I went through that week.

 

The most common misunderstanding about Parvo is that even if your puppy has had 2 vaccines ,parvo can still attack .It is always best to make sure all vaccines are given BEFORE taking your dog into areas where other dogs are (dog parks ,putting them on counters or floors at vet offices or even walking them in an area where other dogs have been )
Parvo can strike at anytime .And an important thing to remember is that people can carry parvo on shoes ,clothing ,hands from any area to your puppy ...and htere are alot of people that do not either believe in the vaccines and do not vaccinate or just don't vaccinate or use less than quality shots to vaccinate .Parvo is deadly and painful ...Don't let it happen to you ...Take the time to make sure yoiur pet is protected BEOFRE it is too late ...

 

Hi,

My puppy, a toy poodle of 2 mths old just got parvo. she is now in the clinic and given IV. i'm very sad that this has happenned. She showed signs of vomitting and diarrhea for 2 days before I sent her to the vet. She seemed very energetic and healthy when she was having those symptoms. Today is her 2nd day in the clinic. I'm not sure what her chances are as she started to have blood in the faeces. the vet said she is quite strong and thinks she might make it. i hope so... i was wondering if any of you could offer me some advice on what I can do at this stage. i really hope that there was something I could do to help. Thanks!

 

PARVO THE SILENT KILLER!!!!!!!!

I just put my teacup chichiuaha down today6/2/07 his name is stewie.
GET YOUR DOGS TO VET THIS STUFF KILLS!!!!! :cry: